FOR HIS LATEST VENTURE, restaurateur Kevin Goldsmith (of TakoSushi) teamed up with his son Cary Goldsmith to dream up a concept with a more European feel. As their vision for Bodega Ultima developed, the father-son team reflected on their passion for and favorite aspects of travel, particularly to places like Spain and Italy. “Wandering around a city, getting a coffee in the morning, stopping for a snack, wandering a bit more before getting another snack…It might be 10:30 and time for a bottle of wine and the day goes from there,” Cary muses. υ
Bodega Ultima captures that sensibility by serving up premium coffee (from cult New York purveyor La Colombe), breakfast and lunch in an airy space in Surrey Center’s lower level. Mornings mean homemade pastries, including baked-fresh-daily croissants and muffins, house-cured lox and bagels, and breakfast sandwiches (try the Ultima), best enjoyed on the outdoor patio. Lunch features a rotating selection of soups, salads and sandwiches, many of which are presented on those tender croissants, like the Shaved Ribeye on Croissant, garnished with red onion, horseradish sauce and aged provolone. Another standout is the Vietnamese-inspired Roast Pork Ultima Banh Mi, where thinly sliced roast pork is layered onto a sturdy hoagie roll with Brussels sprout slaw, ricotta, tomato, crispy bacon, cucumbers and a fried egg. Items like the Garden Toast, topped with ricotta, tomato, avocado, sprouts and a drizzle of Greek olive oil, are available all day, as are the homemade gelatos.
While they’re not yet open in the evenings, the stately bar, made from one solid piece of pine, is fully stocked and open for business. “We have folks who get off from a 12-hour hospital shift at 7 a.m. and can get their nightcap, like a Mimosa or Bloody Mary,” says Cary. His vision for the bar program includes offering more off-the-beaten-path spirits like Amari (bitter Italian liqueurs) and he has already started incorporating gelato into cocktails—their lemon ice takes a starring turn in a riff on the champagne-based French 75. There are also plans to expand into happy hour and eventually dinner service, but the team’s thoughtful approach means they’re taking their time.
Layla Khoury-Hanold is a food writer, avid home cook and life-long professional eater. She has contributed to Saveur, Food Network, Mashable, Drinks International, CheeseRank and Clean Eating. Follow her culinary adventures on her blog, glassofrose.blogspot.com and on Instagram @theglassofrose and Twitter @glassofrose.
A Little Something Extra
Rounding out the Bodega Ultima experience is a well-curated retail concept where you can pick up “uncommonly good goods,” like seasonal La Colombe coffee blends, beautifully packaged Bellocq teas, bottles of Greek olive oil, Parma brand cured sausages, growlers of beer and a selection of great value wines. You might also find unique gift ideas among their beverage accessories, like custom copper Moscow Mule mugs, GoVino wine glasses, cocktail ice molds, champagne buckets and teapots.
YOU MAY BE FAMILIAR WITH cozy downtown gem the Bee’s Knees, but have you visited their sister establishment next door, Hive Growler Bar? Owners Eric and Kristi Kinlaw opened their second concept in May 2015 with a focus on supporting craft beer in big way, to the tune of 78 taps.
From each of the works-of-art tap handles, fashioned by Tire City Potters out of beer tapping equipment, flow a dizzying array of beers. There are ales and lagers from Kölsch to blonde to the darkest imperial stouts and everything in between, plus cask ales, ciders and mead. Eric describes the offering as a cornucopia, saying “We always have a wheat, brown, porter, stout, IPA, different Belgians, Tripels, plus weird variations…we’re more into seasonal, one-off and rare brews, as much as we can get.” Half of those beers hail from Georgia—Eric is a fan of Burnt Hickory Brewery out of Kennesaw and sour beers from Atlanta’s Orpheus Brewing, and he has plans to carry two Augusta breweries, Riverwatch Brewery and Savannah River Brewing Co. The daily-changing tap list is managed via an electronic system that allows bar-goers to look up pour offerings, real-time keg levels and prices on a mounted flat screen, bar-supplied iPads or via their website.
Even if beer isn’t your thing, there are taps reserved for seasonal craft cocktails, wines and their most recent addition, sake. In the non-alcoholic category there are sodas, cold brew coffee (made from local roaster Buona Caffe’s beans) and kombucha, all of which you can take home in growlers, along with any of the beers. And the Hive’s gastropub menu also makes it a destination in its own right. There are beer snacks like house-made fried pickles and house-baked soft pretzels with smoky white cheddar fondue; heartier fare like po’ boys and local, grass-fed beef gourmet burgers; plus a kale slaw that’ll make anyone a convert.
215 10th St. • (706) 836-3661 • www.hivegrowlerbar.com
Peachey’s Fine foods
Though they’re a small, family-owned business, Peachey’s Fine Foods produces an extensive range of small-batch preserved goods like jams, pickles and salsas, as well as ketchups, dressings and barbecue sauces. With each jar and bottle, they strive to “bring you back to a taste of home,” which means simple, traditional recipes made with fresh, wholesome ingredients and absolutely no high fructose corn syrup, artificial flavorings or colorings.
They’re perhaps best known for their salsas, including a chunky tomato-based Peach Salsa amped up with jalapeños, and the Mexican restaurant-style Fine Chopped Salsa, featuring tomatoes, jalapeños, onions, garlic and cilantro, available in mild, medium, hot or nuclear heat levels. Among their jams, pepper jams, like Raspberry Jalapeño and Blackberry Jalapeño, take top honors. Besides nailing the sweet-spicy flavor profile, they’re incredibly versatile: Try spreading pepper jam on a bagel with cream cheese to wake up your breakfast routine; using it to top a wheel of baked Brie at your next cocktail party; or employing it as a glaze for baked pork chops. If fruit-based flavors are more to your taste, try the FROG jam, featuring an unusual but harmonious blend of fig, raspberry, orange and ginger. Rounding out their top-sellers is a Strawberry Poppyseed dressing, where fresh strawberries impart a wallop of berry flavor and a rosy-blush hue. Once you taste it, it’s easy to see why it outsells their other dressings two to one. Try it on a spinach salad scattered with fresh goat cheese and toasted pecans.
New offerings this year include Peach Bourbon BBQ sauce, whose sweet-tangy flavor profile makes it an exceptional match for pork, and an addictive salty-sweet Pineapple Bacon Salsa that’s tailor-made for dipping, but also makes a fine topping for all manner of grilled entrees.
In Augusta you can find Peachey’s Fine Foods products at Southern Made, Fireside Kitchens and Little Dutch Bakery, or online at peacheysfinefoods.com.
This article appears in the April 2016 issue of Augusta Magazine.